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Launching Your Own Cosmetic Brand

skinventionsirelan
May 18
11 min read

Everything You Need to Know to Launch a Cosmetic Product — and Common Shortcuts to Avoid.




The cosmetics industry is heavily regulated to ensure that products placed on the market are safe for human health. In the European Union (EU), every cosmetic product must have a designated “Responsible Person” (RP). This person or company plays a very important role in making sure the product is safe, legally compliant, and properly documented before it can be sold.


If you are planning to start your own skincare or cosmetic brand, understanding the role of the Responsible Person is essential. Many people entering the beauty industry focus mainly on branding, packaging, and marketing, but there is also a legal and safety side that cannot be ignored. Cosmetic products sold in the EU must meet strict regulatory requirements, and failure to comply can lead to fines, product recalls, or legal action.



What Is a Responsible Person?


Under EU Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, the Responsible Person is the legal or natural person responsible for ensuring that cosmetic products placed on the EU market comply with all cosmetic regulations.


The Responsible Person can be the manufacturer, the importer, a distributor acting as the RP, or a third-party cosmetic compliance company appointed by written agreement. Every cosmetic product sold within the EU must have one Responsible Person established within the EU.


You can think of the Responsible Person as the legal “guardian” of the product. Their role is to make sure the product is safe for consumers and that all documentation and compliance requirements are properly completed before the product is sold.



Do You Have to Be the Responsible Person Yourself?


Not necessarily. If you are starting your own cosmetic brand, you have several options. You can choose to become the Responsible Person yourself, ask your manufacturer to act as the Responsible Person, or hire a cosmetic compliance company to manage this responsibility for you.


Many new brand owners decide to work with a professional compliance company because cosmetic regulations and documentation requirements can be complicated, especially for beginners. Working with experts often saves time and helps avoid costly mistakes during the launch process.



Responsibilities of a Responsible Person



  1. Maintaining the Product Information File (PIF)


One of the most important responsibilities of the Responsible Person is maintaining the Product Information File, also known as the PIF. The PIF is essentially the complete technical file for the cosmetic product. It contains all the important information about the formula, manufacturing process, testing, safety assessment, and packaging.


The PIF includes the product recipe, often called the Bill of Materials (BOM), which lists all ingredients used in the formula and their percentages. It also includes manufacturing instructions that explain exactly how the product is produced, mixed, and controlled during manufacturing. Product specifications are also included, covering details such as appearance, smell, pH, viscosity, and microbiological limits.


The Responsible Person must make sure this documentation is complete, accurate, and available for authorities if requested. The documentation must be kept for at least 10 years after the product is last sold on the market.



2. Organising and Overseeing Product Testing


Another major responsibility of the Responsible Person is organising and overseeing product testing. Before a cosmetic product can legally be sold, it must undergo several tests to confirm that it is safe and stable.


Stability Testing


Stability testing is carried out to ensure the product remains safe and effective over time. This testing checks whether the product changes in colour, smell, texture, or performance during storage. It also helps determine the shelf life and expiry period of the product.


Compatibility Testing with Packaging


Compatibility testing with packaging is also extremely important. This testing confirms that the formula works properly with the chosen packaging and that no unwanted reactions occur between the product and the packaging material. For example, some formulas may react with certain plastics, pumps, or containers, which can affect product quality or safety.


Microbiology Testing


Microbiology testing is performed to ensure the product is free from harmful bacteria, yeast, and mould. This is particularly important for water-based products such as creams, shampoos, serums, and cleansers. Preservative challenge testing is also commonly performed to confirm that the preservative system protects the product during normal use.


Dermatology Testing


Many brands also choose to complete dermatological testing to evaluate how the product reacts on human skin. While dermatology testing is not always legally required, it is often used to support product safety and marketing claims such as “dermatologically tested” or “suitable for sensitive skin.”



3. Ensuring Product Claims Are Supported


The Responsible Person must also ensure that all product claims are properly supported with evidence. Cosmetic claims such as “anti-aging,” “24-hour hydration,” “reduces wrinkles,” or “clinically tested” cannot simply be used for marketing purposes without proof.


Depending on the claims made, additional studies may be required. Instrumental testing uses scientific equipment to measure product performance, such as skin hydration or wrinkle reduction. Consumer testing may also be conducted, where volunteers use the product and provide feedback about their experience and results.



4. Cosmetic Product Safety Assessment (CPSR)


Another essential requirement is the Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR). Every cosmetic product sold in the EU must have a CPSR completed by a qualified cosmetic safety assessor.


This report evaluates ingredient safety, toxicology, microbiological quality, packaging compatibility, and the overall safety of the finished product. Without a CPSR, the product cannot legally be placed on the market.



5. Ensuring Compliance with Animal Testing Regulations


The Responsible Person must also ensure compliance with animal testing regulations. Cosmetic products sold in the EU must comply with strict animal testing bans, and suppliers are usually required to provide declarations confirming compliance.



6. Ensuring Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) Compliance


Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) is another key area of responsibility. Cosmetic products must be manufactured according to GMP standards, usually following ISO 22716 guidelines.


GMP ensures that products are manufactured under controlled, hygienic, and consistent conditions. The Responsible Person must ensure that proper GMP documentation and declarations are available.



7. Managing Raw Material Documentation


Raw material documentation is also a critical part of compliance. Every ingredient used in the product must have supporting documents such as Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS or SDS), specification sheets, and Certificates of Analysis (COA).


These documents help confirm the identity, quality, and safety of each raw material used in the formulation.



8. Ensuring Label Compliance


Finally, the Responsible Person must ensure that the product label complies with cosmetic regulations. Cosmetic labels must include specific information such as the product name, ingredient list (INCI), Responsible Person details, batch number, expiry date or PAO symbol, warnings, and product function.


Incorrect or incomplete labeling is one of the most common compliance issues within the cosmetic industry.



Requirements to Launch a Cosmetic Product


Launching a cosmetic product involves several important steps. The process usually begins with developing the product itself, including selecting the formula, packaging, and branding. Some companies choose private label products, which are ready-made formulas sold under a new brand name, while others create completely custom formulations.


Choosing the right cosmetic product development chemist is extremely important when creating your brand. An experienced chemist can guide you through the entire development process, from formulation and ingredient selection to testing, compliance, and product stability. A professional cosmetic chemist understands cosmetic regulations, safety requirements, and market trends, while also helping ensure that your product is effective, safe, and commercially viable. Working with an independent cosmetic product development chemist can make the product launch process much smoother, more efficient, and less overwhelming, especially for new brand owners.


Once the formula and packaging are finalised, the product must undergo all required testing, including stability testing, microbiology testing, and packaging compatibility testing. Additional testing may also be required depending on the product type and marketing claims.


After testing is completed, the Cosmetic Product Safety Report must be prepared by a qualified safety assessor. All technical documents, testing reports, specifications, and declarations are then collected into the Product Information File.


Before the product can be sold, the label must be reviewed carefully to ensure compliance with cosmetic labeling regulations. The Responsible Person must then be officially appointed, and the product must be registered through the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP).

Only after all these steps are completed can the cosmetic product legally be placed on the EU market.



Common Shortcuts & Pitfalls — and Their Consequences




1. Skipping or Not Repeating Stability Testing


One of the most common shortcuts small cosmetic brands take is not performing proper stability testing or failing to repeat stability testing after formulation changes. Some brands assume that if the product looks fine after a few weeks, it is stable enough to sell. Others may change fragrances, switch ingredient suppliers, scale up production batches, or slightly adjust the formula without repeating stability testing, assuming the product will behave the same.


However, even small changes in a formulation can affect the stability, texture, colour, smell, viscosity, preservative system, and overall product performance. Ingredients from different suppliers may vary in purity, composition, or processing methods, which can also impact the finished product.


Without proper stability testing, there is no way to know how the product will behave over time or under different storage conditions.


For example, a face cream may look perfect when freshly made but separate after three months in a warm bathroom, warehouse, or during transport.


Possible Consequences:

  • Product separation

  • Changes in colour, smell, or texture

  • Formula becoming ineffective

  • Preservatives failing over time

  • Shortened shelf life

  • Inconsistent product performance

  • Failed stability testing later

  • Customer complaints and product returns


Proper stability testing should always be performed on final formulations and repeated whenever significant formulation, supplier, fragrance, manufacturing, or scale-up changes are made.



2. Skipping or Not Repeating Packaging Compatibility Testing


Some businesses choose packaging based only on appearance, price, or current trends without checking whether it is compatible with the formula. Another common mistake is changing the packaging later without repeating compatibility testing, assuming the product will behave the same in the new container.

 

Different formulations can react with certain plastics, pumps, droppers, liners, or metal components. Even if the formula itself has not changed, switching packaging suppliers or materials can affect the stability and safety of the product over time.


For example, a serum containing essential oils may slowly damage certain plastic packaging if compatibility testing is not performed.


Possible Consequences:

  • Leaking bottles or jars

  • Broken pumps or dispensers

  • Formula contamination

  • Packaging cracking, warping, or discoloration

  • Product instability

  • Changes in colour, smell, or texture

  • Air entering the packaging and affecting stability

  • Reduced shelf life

  • Customer complaints and returns


Proper compatibility testing should always be carried out whenever a new formulation or new packaging is introduced to ensure the product remains safe, stable, and functional throughout its shelf life.



3. Using Inadequate Preservative Systems


Some brands try to market products as “preservative-free” or use weak preservative systems without understanding microbiological safety.


This is particularly risky for water-based products.


Possible Consequences:

  • Bacterial contamination

  • Mold or yeast growth

  • Serious skin reactions

  • Product recalls

  • Health risks to consumers


Even products made with natural ingredients can grow harmful microorganisms if not properly preserved.



4. Skipping Microbiology or Challenge Testing


To save money, some small businesses avoid microbiology testing or preservative challenge testing entirely.


Possible Consequences:

  • Unsafe products reaching consumers

  • Contaminated batches

  • Reduced product safety during use

  • Legal liability if consumers experience reactions


Challenge testing is especially important because it checks whether the preservative system continues protecting the product after opening and repeated use.



  1. Failing to Re-Test Products After Scale-Up or Manufacturer Changes


Another common shortcut is not repeating stability and microbiology testing when scaling up production batches or changing manufacturers. Many small brands assume that if a laboratory sample or small pilot batch passed testing, the larger production batch will behave exactly the same.


However, scaling up production can significantly affect the product because manufacturing equipment, mixing processes, temperatures, filling procedures, production environments, and hygiene standards may all differ. Changing manufacturers can also introduce new variables due to different factory setups, water systems, equipment, and handling procedures.


Possible Consequences:

  • Product instability in larger batches

  • Changes in texture, viscosity, colour, or smell

  • Microbiological contamination risks

  • Preservative system failure

  • Inconsistent product quality between batches

  • Customer complaints and product recalls


Even if the formula itself has not changed, scale-up batches and manufacturer changes should always be properly evaluated to ensure the product remains safe, stable, and compliant under real production conditions.

 


6. Copying Formulas from the Internet


Some startups attempt to create cosmetic products using DIY recipes found online without professional formulation knowledge.


Possible Consequences:

  • Unstable formulations

  • Unsafe ingredient combinations

  • Incorrect preservative use

  • Skin irritation or allergic reactions

  • Products failing safety assessments


Professional cosmetic formulation requires understanding chemistry, stability, ingredient interactions, and safety regulations.


 

7. Using Unsupported Marketing Claims


Small brands sometimes make strong marketing claims without scientific evidence in order to attract customers quickly.


Examples include:

  • “Eliminates wrinkles”

  • “Cures acne”

  • “Clinically proven”

  • “Hypoallergenic”


Possible Consequences:

  • Regulatory warnings

  • Product claims being challenged

  • Loss of customer trust

  • Legal issues

  • Products being classified incorrectly as medicines


In the EU, cosmetic claims must always be supported with evidence.

 


8. Launching Without Proper CPSR or PIF Documentation


Some businesses try selling products before obtaining a Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) or completing the Product Information File (PIF).


Possible Consequences:

  • Illegal product placement on the market

  • Regulatory fines

  • Product removal from sale

  • Difficulty entering retailers or online marketplaces

  • Insurance problems


Without proper documentation, the product is not considered legally compliant.

 


  1. Choosing Cheap or Unqualified Safety Assessors


Another common shortcut small cosmetic brands take is choosing the cheapest option for the Cosmetic Product Safety Report (CPSR) without checking the qualifications or experience of the safety assessor. Not all assessors work to the same professional standard, and low-cost assessments may sometimes overlook important formulation, toxicology, or compliance issues.


Possible Consequences:

  • Incomplete or poor-quality safety assessments

  • Important safety concerns being missed

  • Non-compliant products entering the market

  • Problems during regulatory inspections

  • Increased legal and financial risks

  • Damage to brand credibility and consumer trust


A proper CPSR should always be completed by a suitably qualified and experienced cosmetic safety assessor who understands cosmetic regulations, toxicology, and product safety requirements.


 

10. Buying Cheap Raw Materials Without Documentation


Choosing the cheapest ingredients without checking supplier documentation is another common shortcut.


Possible Consequences:

  • Poor product quality

  • Inconsistent batches

  • Contaminated raw materials

  • Safety concerns

  • Failed safety assessments


Every cosmetic ingredient should have proper documentation, such as:

  • MSDS/SDS

  • COA

  • Specification sheets

 


11. Ignoring GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice)


Some small brands manufacture products in uncontrolled environments without proper hygiene or procedures (in the kitchen or garage).


Possible Consequences:

  • Cross-contamination

  • Microbial contamination

  • Inconsistent quality

  • Failed audits

  • Unsafe products


Even small-scale cosmetic production must follow GMP standards.


 

12. Non-Compliant Labels


Many new brands underestimate how important cosmetic labeling is. Missing information, incorrect claims, missing batch numbers, or expiry dates. Sometimes brands copy ingredient lists from older versions of products or forget to update the label after formulation changes, which can lead to inaccurate ingredient declarations.


Possible Consequences:

  • Products becoming non-compliant

  • Customs issues and shipment delays

  • Retail rejection

  • Regulatory action or fines

  • Consumer confusion

  • Increased risk of allergic reactions due to incorrect INCI lists

  • Loss of customer trust and brand credibility


Incorrect labels can damage the professionalism and credibility of a brand very quickly and may also create serious legal and safety concerns.



  1. Incorrect Ingredient Lists on Labels


Another common mistake is using incorrect ingredient names on cosmetic labels. Some small brands use chemical names, supplier trade names, or informal ingredient descriptions instead of the correct INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) names required by cosmetic regulations. Brands also sometimes forget to include required fragrance allergens on the ingredient list.


Possible Consequences:

  • Non-compliant product labels

  • Retail rejection or customs issues

  • Regulatory action or fines

  • Consumer confusion

  • Increased risk for customers with allergies or sensitivities

  • Damage to brand credibility and trust


Ingredient lists should always use correct INCI terminology and include all required allergens to ensure legal compliance and consumer safety.



  1. Forgetting to Notify the Product on the CPNP


Another common mistake small cosmetic brands make is forgetting to notify their product on the Cosmetic Product Notification Portal (CPNP) before launching it on the EU market. Some brands assume that once the product has a safety assessment and label, it is ready to sell, without realizing that CPNP notification is a legal requirement.


The CPNP notification allows authorities and poison centers to access important information about the product in case of safety concerns or emergencies.


Possible consequences:

  • Products being sold illegally on the EU market

  • Regulatory action or fines

  • Products being removed from sale

  • Customs delays or shipment blocks

  • Problems with retailers or distributors

  • Damage to brand credibility and compliance status


Every cosmetic product must be properly notified on the CPNP before it is placed on the EU market.



Final Thoughts



Launching a cosmetic product involves much more than branding and packaging. Proper testing, safety assessments, compliant labels, and correct documentation are essential to creating a safe, professional, and legally compliant product. While shortcuts may seem tempting, they can lead to serious issues such as product instability, regulatory problems, customer complaints, and damage to your brand reputation.


If you need support at any stage of your cosmetic product development journey — from formulation and testing to compliance and product launch — I

am here to help.


Let's create beauty together.

 
 
 

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